Tag Archives: Terrific Tabard an “Art to Wear” pattern now available at my Etsy store Designs by Heidi Emmett

Marcia Derse Fabrics Meet Terrific Tabard Vest Pattern!

by HEIDI EMMETT

Check out what I created using the latest group of Marcia Derse fabrics. It all started with my Terrific Tabard Vest pattern.

 

Sometimes the best way to figure out how best to use a bunch of different fabrics is to take a picture and look at it. Something you thought was perfect like the lime green “grunge” jumps out too much. I ended up eliminating it. All except the lining are Marcia Derse.
Laying out the tissue pieces ahead to think through what you are doing is very helpful.
You are looking at wrong side of the bright colored Marcia Derse piece. Once the basic pieces are cut out I Terial Magic each piece. There is no batting in this version of Terrific Tabard, a vest pattern by DesignsbyHeidiEmmett. I need body in the pieces so they are easier to sew together, applique’, and stitch down. I put a piece of muslin onto my ironing board and spray the pieces with Terial Magic and Iron (Dry iron on Cotton setting) until dry. Not stiff enough, spray again and iron again.
I cut out smaller pieces to stitch on top later. Yes, treat those with Terial Magic too. I have a small scrap of muslin underneath for overspray. My bottle looks squished because it has traveled up and back from sea level to 7200ft. It still works just fine. Strange though.

There are only 2 pieces to my Terrific Tabard Vest pattern. A front piece (cut 2), and a back piece (cut one on the fold).  Designs by Heidi Emmett. I sell this pattern in my Etsy shop: DesignsbyHeidiEmmett/sewing patterns or email me directly (especially if you are overseas). I’m making this version of Terrific Tabard differently than either of the views on the cover. 1. There is no batting. 2. All the extra raw edge applique’ or whatever I choose to do is done AFTER the vest is together. 3. There is no outside trim attached either. Bear with me here. This is SO EASY! and FAST! 1. Stitch fashion pieces together at the shoulders (wild Marcia D. fabrics above) 2. Stitch the lining pieces together at the shoulders (black confetti looking fabric). 3. With right sides together stitch all the way around the vest using a 1/4″ seam allowance and leave an opening at the side back about 5″ for turning. 4. Turn the vest inside out through the opening. 5. Press and continue with embellishing the vest and adding tabs (topstitch in place). Phew you didn’t even break a sweat! Make it up, make it fun, and get it DONE!

Grade the seams before turning inside out (pick one side it doesn’t matter which one and trim it to 1/8″). This where the magic of the Terial Magic on each piece really, really helps you. 1. First, sewing the pieces together all the way around is so much easier. I didn’t even use pins. The T.M. adds a bit of friction and keeps the pieces in place while you stitch. Of course, you must always check your progress and keep seams lined up. 2. Because the edges are crisp it was sooo much easier to grade the seam. 3. After pulling the vest through the opening, pressing the entire vest is so much easier because of the T.M. It just seems to smooth out (no wrinkles or extra fabric) on its’ own. There! 3 fantastic reasons to use Terial Magic. I pressed under the edges of the black and white pieces I’d cut out earlier and placed them where I wanted on the back of the vest. No pins needed. Held each piece in place with my fingers while edge stitching through the top layer and the lining.
On the front I picked some  shapes and did some random stitching (crooked ON PURPOSE, I promise). I stitched through both the fashion fabric and the lining.
This one is a bit of a wobbly one, but I think it gives more interest. Marcia Derse Fabrics. Designs by Heidi’s Terrific Tabard Vest Pattern.

Stitching on the outside, when I’m finished I do not backstitch and trim.Instead, I pull the thread either to the fashion side or the lining side. Tug on either the top thread or the bobbin thread and a little loop appears. Be gentle. Pull gently on the loop then both threads will appear on one side. Knot the threads twice (like you are tying your shoelace (just not the bow part).Go to next picture.
Thread those two threads that have been double knotted onto a needle and run the needle in between the top fabric and the lining. This is called “burying the thread.” Clip off the excess thread.
Marcia Derse fabric meets Terrific Tabard vest pattern. Check out my Etsy store for this pattern and others. Live overseas? Contact me directly and I’ll save you $$ on shipping. hmemmett@gmail.com
I used random widths of the black and whites (I only had fat qtrs. so I just made it work)for the left side of the vest. You can see my “random” stitching on the colorful part too.
Closures should be interesting and kinda “wonky” when stitched onto the vest. The buttons have not been chosen yet. But I always leave some room in the loop portion  for whatever size is chosen. The loop can be stitched closed more if needed. I would never make a new one.
Side closures aren’t seen as much so I keep them simple. I like tying knots on the ends and trim excess off as close to the knot as I can get.
Check out this very cool pumpkin. I had to make a trip to the Dentist  while right in the middle of my vest making. I went for my “Coronation.” I even gave a royal wave as I exited the building. O.K., I got my permanent crown for my tooth. I love this pumpkin. Here’s what the receptionist said: Punch holes in the top of a pumpkin (holes should equal how many succulents you have. Gently place root into hole. Pack some dirt around root and hole. Hot glue (just a small amount) moss around to hide the dirt. No watering needed. I want to try this!
Hydrangeas, as happy as can be in this mild November weather.
Such an exquisite color.
Dogwood leaves. More exquisite colors.

So true sometimes. Sigh… But I always say, I could have worse habits. Ha, ha.  Thanks for stopping by. Hugs, Heidi

Free Styling & Spiraling! – A Piecing Technique! Check This Out!

by  Heidi Emmett

I love taking fiber classes! And today is the day I’m taking one from Mel Beach. If you ever have a chance, take one of her classes. Here I am, packed and ready to go. But wait, commercial break: What am I wearing? Why it’s my Terrific Tabard vest. It is the ” Tree of Life” version of this pattern. Look, there are even small circular spirals at the shoulders. Email me at hmemmett@gmail.com for the easiest, fastest, way to get your own copy.

Be sure to check my other blog posts on Terrific Tabard for more ideas

Oh my, I’m going to learn how to make these rectangled spirals? Yes, yes.
Different fabrics make each spiral “pop” in a unique way.
These are all the teachers samples. She did suggest Ombre’s for added sparkle. For some great ombre’ fabrics, head on over to Christine Barnes’ site
Mel Beach has such a way with her modern sense of pattern play in piecing and quilting.
Samples abound and we ALL loved making spiraling triangles too.
I told Mel that I can’t wait to try these on even a smaller scale for my “Art to Wear Garments.” Mel knows that I work in wearables not quilts on the walls. And she said that she too was thinking about these cool rectangles, squares, triangles, etc. would be a perfect fit for my different vest patterns.
Above is how the whole process begins. It’s just like a courthouse steps pattern with just a couple tweaks. So hard to imagine, but she had us “improving” like crazy and it was all before lunch!
Here are some student work. Mine are the triangles and squares closest to the tables edge. I have so MANY ombres (at home) to choose from. Now that I know what to do, I will play with shaping the spirals better, and background choices. Ohhhh, what fun!
Back home, on a walk this morning, Mahonia aquafolium (Oregon Grape) has the prettiest blossom clusters this year.
The daffodils are especially nice in upper Northern CA where I live (one hour north of Sacramento, in the foothills). They have never bloomed this long before. And the sunny yellow is so cheerful.
O.K. these are “store bought.” Our tulips are closed so tightly right now. But I couldn’t wait. Don’t forget to dash over to Artistic Alchemy’s blog post this week. Sandra Bruce is posting. Sandra, Jane, & I still have some room in our workshops. Mary’s is full. Maybe I’ll see YOU in my workshop this year up at Zephyr Point. It’s all about learning new creative ways with fiber, making new friends, and enjoying all the beauty that Lake Tahoe has to offer.

Here is a terrific view of a cabin on the property. Cave rock is w-a-y in the distance. This is Porcupine trail where you get a bird’s eye view of Lake Tahoe and the Zephyr Point property. Thanks for stopping by and I hope you have time for some creative sewing this weekend. Hugs, Heidi

CHECK THIS OUT! A New and Different Terrific Tabard by Designs by Heidi

I’m changing things up at Design’s by Heidi. Same great patterns, but I’m looking forward to working  with different fabrics, and a sleek and smooth look, so very little to no quilting. I will always have beautiful quilting fabrics in my designs and lots of stitching, but now I want add fabrics such as silk shantung, linen, wools, etc. and add some solid colors and/or more black. I am just getting started on my “Black + A Color” collection (using my current patterns). Below, I present to you, the FIRST piece in this collection: Terrific Tabard aka “Skinny Vest.” Here is the basic pattern.

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I bought one of Mary Boalt’s beautiful “half a canvas.” I love it sew much that I was determined to use every, single, scrap! And I have. Let me show you how I did it. Below, on the right side of the vest, I used the majority of the panel. It measured approximately 18″ x 29″.  I used View “A” with the rounded front piece (near the neck area). I chose to pin my vest closed at the top instead of a button at the waist. A whole NEW look.

O.K., let’s unpack how SIMPLE this vest was to make. I think that laying it out flat shows how easy it is. 

And here are the lining pieces. Before we go any further, this is the biggest change to the Terrific Tabard pattern. Normally, all creative work is done on the wrong side of the lining/foundation piece. This time, creative stitching is done on all the outside pieces and the lining is used to create the finished outside edge. Here is the order to put this together: 1. Stitch, right sides together, the decorated pieces at the shoulders. 2. Copy that on the lining pieces. 3. With right sides together, pin the outside of the vest, to the lining of the vest. 4. Begin stitching all the way around the vest on one side of the back. 5. Stitch, stitch, all the way around until you come within 6-7″ of the beginning. 6. Turn the vest through this opening. 7. Press, add loops, buttons, etc. 

Now for some of the details. My beautiful “closure” pin. Look in your long forgotten pin drawer. Who knows, an entire vest may come from one of your treasures. 

This is the largest, leftover piece I had. Oh, great, a chunk is missing. No worries. 

Sew a piece to it. Stitch in a gentle curve (no time to make it fit exactly in the empty space). Press FIRST, then trim away excess (I have been known to trim off the WRONG edge). 

It has been pressed, trimmed, and greaaaat, there is a pleaty thing going on. No worries. This is “Art to Wear” and improvising when necessary is the name of the game.

Getting ready to trim off the excess. I use my rotary cutter, ruler, and mat, as much as possible. It increases accuracy in my cuts. 

Now the fun begins!  I’m auditioning some of my favorite fabric pieces. I always have a main fabric to key off from. In this vest I used Mary Boalt’s  (check out her work at Artisticalchemyblog.wordpress.com ) hand painted and stamped canvas.  

Remember I said I use every single scrap? There is one scrap above (I added that polka dot to, and below is another scrap). Hmm..it has a “sort of” pocket shape. That’s it, make a pocket. 

I lay all three pieces out and pick and choose my fabrics to go with. I don’t have any idea what I really want. Ya just have to start. A few things I do know: 1. I want long, lean, lines. 2. I want at least one pocket. 3. I wont add anything to the beautiful panel piece. Taking pictures of what you are doing can really help. Also, leave it for awhile and come back with fresh eyes. This picture already shows me one thing I don’t want and that is bunnies hopping across  my waistline. That’s a horizontal line= feeling larger.

Note: Yes, I placed these pieces on top of some major piles of fabric. Acckk.. it’s an ongoing job, straightening and rearranging in my studio space.

The bunnies have hopped around to the back and I’m putting a strip of polka dots on the front and running it at an angle for a thinner look. The pocket is already on. See the thread on the the side? That is where I stopped stitching. This gives some depth to the pocket so stuff wont fall out.  And now I’m thinking about closures and buttons. What to do, what to do,….Oh, and there is another scrap (under the button), should it go there? Acck..I have to stop for a bit.I can’t decide on anything because I’m hungry.

Well, I just found out that our personal chef wants to quit. Kidding, the personal chef is ME OF COURSE! So I sent my CTO & CFO out to pick up something (that CFO, etc. I’m not kidding about, is my husband). O.K. back to it. Button, button, where is the perfect button? These are all so cool. Sandra Bruce makes the best polymer buttons and earrings. See her treasures at Artisticalchemyblog.wordpress.com   

Too funny. All those beautiful buttons and I ended up with a pin. A smoother look (I wasn’t liking a tab or ties for the front). The pin is perfect.

I forgot to point out the cute little colorful ties that Mary added to her canvas. The finishing touch. I love them. 

Now I am topstitching all those pieces down. Use glue or pins to hold them in place until sewn. I have the presser foot up (needle in fabric)in this picture as I am getting ready to turn it around and stitch right into the silk. I call this cardiac stitching (goes up and down in a zigzag pattern similar to an electrocardiogram).   

I am putting a spotlight on the stitching down of the long strip that I added the polka dot fabric too. I ran it, longwise, through my serger. I got ready to press it under, but I thought, that I liked the texture that I just made, sew I stitched it down. Oh, and to the left of the bunnies, that is where the little scrap ended up (I originally had it under a button. 

 

There is some more stitching on the front.

Here is a rectangle of stitching from the front side. Whaat is going on here? 

Here is the wrong side. I found a scrap of a light weight canvas. I stitched it down all the way around on the wrong side of the vest front. Who cares what the fabric looks like, as the vest will be lined. But the weight is perfect to prevent puckering.

Back to the right side and stitch, stitch, stitch, up and down, back and forth, until it looks like this. I have named this method, “Stock market Ups & Downs.” 

Another rectangle ready for the stock market stitch. 

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I just had to include these next two pictures. When it gets too cold (and/ I’m doing some cleaning) in my attic studio, I bring fabrics down and  do my cutting out on my dining room table. I see four projects in this picture in various states of readiness to sew. Rubix zeroed in on the soft pile of my newest Kantha cloth acquisition. He looked pretty cute. He loved his puddle of sun so much, he stretched out on his back and……

promptly rolled right off the table. Of course he sauntered out from under the table as if to exclaim, “I meant to do that.” There are stories in this picture. Yes, that is a sewing machine table in the background. My sweet dad put that together 50+ years ago and my mom gave it to me when she downsized. It’s a treasure. The Leopard chair (ultrasuede) is from my Mother-in-law. There are two of those. Hmm…I think I have enough leopard items to do a post on “All I know about Leopard prints and why I love them so!” You saw the Kantha which is now,  another post idea coming to the forefront of my brain, “All About Kantha.” Last but NOT least is the FABULOUS Mary Boalt canvas on the chair. Of COURSE I HAD TO BUY ANOTHER ONE! After my new favorite Terrific Tabard that you just read about, the ideas just keep coming for ways to incorporate her canvases into other Designed by Heidi patterns.

Thanks for stopping by! Get creative this weekend. Hugs, to you all. Heidi

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Terrific Tabard goes to the Pine Tree Quilt Guild of Grass Valley, CA,for a Workshop!

After a fun-filled “Trunk Show” with Designs by Heidi in Grass Valley, CA,at the Pine Tree Quilt Guild (the guild I attend), I taught a workshop the next day using my Terrific Tabard Vest pattern. I had 12 amazing students.  Come see what everyone was working on….

Margaret, the workshop chair, wore her beautiful T.T. vest to the workshop. What a perfect advertisement she was. Lots of detail work.

Apologies on the blurry picture. I HAVE TO LEARN to tone down my enthusiasm for my students work until AFTER I TAKE THE PICTURES! Margaret, this is a beautiful vest and you wear it very well.  I apologize in advance, as I messed up on other pictures for Lori, Arline, Raedean…..acckk!

Jill is laying out her Kaffe Fassett stripes that will be added to some of her pre-made Kaffe blocks and pieces. She is using Terial Magic on every piece going into this vest as these stripes and shot cottons are not that tightly woven.  And she will whistle while she stitches ’cause Terial Magic makes fabrics like paper for ease of stitching. It all washes out it you want it to. 

Lynda has some stunner hand dyed fabric. She plans to use this as a foundation/lining piece (it acts for both) for one of the front pieces. 

Carolie is keying off one large scaled print to pick up all the other colored pieces for her collage styled vest. Like “Tree of Life” , view B. of the pattern. 

Holly has used a floral (the circles of flowers) to pull out other colors. She is using that rayon print (behind everything) as her lining/foundation fabric. What a fun, contemporary look. I encourage everyone to always think, “long and lean” with their raw edge collaging. And that is just what Holly is doing here. 

Pavana is using a large scale print as I did for view A in the pattern (Aussie Angle). Teal and lime are so great together and see how the large flowers fill up the space? Cut out a bunch of the large scale pieces and arrange them in a way that you like then begin filling in the empty spaces with strips and other chunks of fabric. Pavana is using that same all over print for her lining/foundation piece. The white that you see is her batting.  

Robi is contemplating her beautiful batiks. This the way you do it. Audition all your fabrics for choices. Taking a picture and looking at that, is another way to help make choices.  While the geometric piece isn’t “large scaled”, scroll down and see where it started. 

I had suggested she cut out chunks of the geometric batik and Robi went above and beyond with this intricate looking puzzle-pieced fabric. The piece in the middle is the uncut fabric. 

She is trying to decide which one she likes the best that will become her foundation/lining piece. Which one do you like best? 

Do any of you still work on the floor? Margie gets the “Miss Limber of the year award!” It is a great way to see how all the fabrics you have chosen will look. 

Margie chose this beautiful 100% linen field of flowers for her foundation fabric. One of the colorful pieces will be used for her lining. The floral piece is not long enough. So, she gathered her palette right from the flowers and will create a “piano key” strip across the bottom. Brilliant idea. 

Check this out. A fabric that looks like burlap! Go to the Connecting Threads site of the same name. It’s a solid without being solid, ha, ha. It’s like my super fav. fabric, “Grunge” which now has 180 colors. Whaaaat? That’s right (Christine Barnes told me ’cause she has the color cards). 

Julie is a great example of working with large scaled fabrics and small prints for  a resting place for the eyes. Kaffe Fassett fabrics tend to have more medium values across the board. So doing what Julie is (using large and small scales together) is perfect. 

Julie is working on the back first.  I suggest this as it is the largest “blank canvas” and if you want to make changes, those can be done on the fronts, because you will be a pro at that point! 

Oh, this is going to be fun! Now this girl put her “pedal (maybe it should be “petals”) to the metal and is already working on the fronts. She will be totally prepped to raw edge stitch. 

And look at my special treat. Julie saved all her scraps for ME! I shamelessly asked that if she was going to throw them out, I would take them. And she obliged. Thank you Julie. 

Next month the Pine Tree Quilt Guild is having a March mixer. There is not the usual Show and Tell time, but hopefully, many of my students will be WEARING their Art to Wear creations. I’ll get CLEAR pictures, I promise.

Next week I will post my own newest, latest, greatest Terrific Tabard vest and how I did it.

 

A late summer sunset at Zephyr Point. You could be HERE this Sept. 3rd-7th with Artistic Alchemy. We have TONS of fun. Go to Artisticalchemyblog.wordpress.com for all the details.  

Have a terrific weekend. Four days for many of you. Let’s get some creative sewing done! Hugs, Heidi

A few words of wisdom from Cathy Stone (she just moved to Gig Harbor, WA, we miss you Cathy!): “Learn to Let Go, or get dragged.”  It makes you think, doesn’t it?

“Wear-With-All,” And My Students had the Wherewithal to Create their Own!

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I recently did a trunk show called “Art on the Wall, Art to WEAR!” for the Folsom Quilt Guild in Folsom, CA. What a delightful group. Thank you ladies for having me. I felt so welcomed and appreciated. The next day I did a workshop on the Terrific Tabard (aka Skinny Vest). What an amazing group. Let me show what they were working on:  Dorothy (on the left) and Gail came prepared with many strips (for filler sections) already sewn together. Amazing! (hmm..teacher’s pets maybe). dsc_0251

Sandi, got right to work on her Large Scaled Aboriginal print by treating it with Terial Magic first (to make it stiff like a board)  and then cutting it up into interesting shapes. dsc_0253

Susan also used some Aboriginal fabrics along with a few Kaffe Fassett piecesin the mix. dsc_0255

Don’t you really like how she has combined flowers and shapes. The black and white Aboriginal fabric is the great unifier.
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Brenda is using the Tree of Life view in Terrific Tabard to create a collaged vest. dsc_0257

Lorraine is working with black and gold and batiks. This lady is the SPEED queen! She put pedal to the metal and got really far along in her vest Adventure. She plans to do some diagonal strips with shots of color added(via small squares) into a modern look.  dsc_0260

Brenda and Susan are working hard!
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Linda has already titled her vest as” Peony Madness.” Hmm..what madness is this? I get it though. See her beautiful Kaffe Peony Fabric below? It is a large scaled print. And sometimes they just don’t work out as you planned. Keep the faith Linda. This process can take some working and re-working.Save the black and cream around those flowers and mix it along with some other black/cream prints.  Use at least one more larger scale print Linda that goes with all. That will pull it all together. dsc_0263

Mairy (with an “I”), arrived later (she had be at work), and she was a busy, busy, girl in no time at all!!  I love her use of intense yellow green and red violet, all grounded with our favorite, black and white. dsc_0264 dsc_0265

Suzanne is using sweet prints, similar in scale. That works well as a base for the beginnings of her garden scene. The little bird comes from her lining fabric (see it off to the left).

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Diana is using all “happy” fabrics. I love the way she is using her strip pieces. Glue those puppies down (instead of sewing them together as “filler pieces.”) and stitch them as raw-edged collage.  Great idea. dsc_0271 dsc_0272

There’s smoke coming out of Lorraine’s sewing machine, I just know it. Whirrr….. I am teasing you Lorraine in a good way. I wish I could create that fast. dsc_0274

Susan is flying on the back of her vest. Black and white, White and black, always, always, pull the whole look together. Really fun. dsc_0281

Dorie is our Over Achiever! Not only was she “in charge” of my coming to Folsom, she is already WEARING Terrific Tabard # 3 that she has made. Yes, that’s right, three vests BEFORE the workshop. Dorie, you make me look good! Thank you. dsc_0286

Beautiful choices. Each one is so detailed! And I am so proud, bits of black make a statement in all of her vests. We ran out of time to take pics of her other two. I will see Dorie in May. I’ll get those pictures yet. dsc_0285

I like what Sheila is doing here. She’s laying out her strips first (to get ideas for placement) and then look at the difference in background choices for her large print flowers. Hands down, in my opinion, use the black. dsc_0291

We had a “walkabout” and looked at all the vest creations. We all learned from each other. Mairy, I just love your creative idea of “color” outlining. See? Brenda is pointing to them. dsc_0298

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Sandi get the prize (waay up at the beginning), she temporarily suspended work on the Aboriginal (it happens, she’ll get back to it). I saw her beginning to cut out some fish , and a few days later she sent me these FABULOUS pictures! Thank you Sandi. You must post these on the Kaffe Fassett site. That little fish wants to eat your button!

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Whimsical and so fun. I love it. And ladies check out that black trim, and that little bit of black in the row of flowers and white/black print. Perfect. susie-fong-fish-vest

And then, YIPPEE! Mairy sent me a picture of her completed back piece of her vest. Love, LOVE, what is happening in this piece. Mairy, this is stunning! I can’t wait to see what’s next.
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Didn’t I tell you they were a great group of sewists? A whirlwind of activity and fun in that workshop.

One last thing before you leave, check out the new Logo that has been added! Yep, my Etsy store is up and running. It’s for “hard” copies of all my patterns. Deisgns by Heidi Emmett is my store name. Thank you for stopping by and come back when you have time and visit past posts. I hope they will inspire you to get creative. Hugs, Heidi


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