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Marcia Derse Fabrics Meet Terrific Tabard Vest Pattern!

by HEIDI EMMETT

Check out what I created using the latest group of Marcia Derse fabrics. It all started with my Terrific Tabard Vest pattern.

 

Sometimes the best way to figure out how best to use a bunch of different fabrics is to take a picture and look at it. Something you thought was perfect like the lime green “grunge” jumps out too much. I ended up eliminating it. All except the lining are Marcia Derse.
Laying out the tissue pieces ahead to think through what you are doing is very helpful.
You are looking at wrong side of the bright colored Marcia Derse piece. Once the basic pieces are cut out I Terial Magic each piece. There is no batting in this version of Terrific Tabard, a vest pattern by DesignsbyHeidiEmmett. I need body in the pieces so they are easier to sew together, applique’, and stitch down. I put a piece of muslin onto my ironing board and spray the pieces with Terial Magic and Iron (Dry iron on Cotton setting) until dry. Not stiff enough, spray again and iron again.
I cut out smaller pieces to stitch on top later. Yes, treat those with Terial Magic too. I have a small scrap of muslin underneath for overspray. My bottle looks squished because it has traveled up and back from sea level to 7200ft. It still works just fine. Strange though.

There are only 2 pieces to my Terrific Tabard Vest pattern. A front piece (cut 2), and a back piece (cut one on the fold).  Designs by Heidi Emmett. I sell this pattern in my Etsy shop: DesignsbyHeidiEmmett/sewing patterns or email me directly (especially if you are overseas). I’m making this version of Terrific Tabard differently than either of the views on the cover. 1. There is no batting. 2. All the extra raw edge applique’ or whatever I choose to do is done AFTER the vest is together. 3. There is no outside trim attached either. Bear with me here. This is SO EASY! and FAST! 1. Stitch fashion pieces together at the shoulders (wild Marcia D. fabrics above) 2. Stitch the lining pieces together at the shoulders (black confetti looking fabric). 3. With right sides together stitch all the way around the vest using a 1/4″ seam allowance and leave an opening at the side back about 5″ for turning. 4. Turn the vest inside out through the opening. 5. Press and continue with embellishing the vest and adding tabs (topstitch in place). Phew you didn’t even break a sweat! Make it up, make it fun, and get it DONE!

Grade the seams before turning inside out (pick one side it doesn’t matter which one and trim it to 1/8″). This where the magic of the Terial Magic on each piece really, really helps you. 1. First, sewing the pieces together all the way around is so much easier. I didn’t even use pins. The T.M. adds a bit of friction and keeps the pieces in place while you stitch. Of course, you must always check your progress and keep seams lined up. 2. Because the edges are crisp it was sooo much easier to grade the seam. 3. After pulling the vest through the opening, pressing the entire vest is so much easier because of the T.M. It just seems to smooth out (no wrinkles or extra fabric) on its’ own. There! 3 fantastic reasons to use Terial Magic. I pressed under the edges of the black and white pieces I’d cut out earlier and placed them where I wanted on the back of the vest. No pins needed. Held each piece in place with my fingers while edge stitching through the top layer and the lining.
On the front I picked some  shapes and did some random stitching (crooked ON PURPOSE, I promise). I stitched through both the fashion fabric and the lining.
This one is a bit of a wobbly one, but I think it gives more interest. Marcia Derse Fabrics. Designs by Heidi’s Terrific Tabard Vest Pattern.

Stitching on the outside, when I’m finished I do not backstitch and trim.Instead, I pull the thread either to the fashion side or the lining side. Tug on either the top thread or the bobbin thread and a little loop appears. Be gentle. Pull gently on the loop then both threads will appear on one side. Knot the threads twice (like you are tying your shoelace (just not the bow part).Go to next picture.
Thread those two threads that have been double knotted onto a needle and run the needle in between the top fabric and the lining. This is called “burying the thread.” Clip off the excess thread.
Marcia Derse fabric meets Terrific Tabard vest pattern. Check out my Etsy store for this pattern and others. Live overseas? Contact me directly and I’ll save you $$ on shipping. hmemmett@gmail.com
I used random widths of the black and whites (I only had fat qtrs. so I just made it work)for the left side of the vest. You can see my “random” stitching on the colorful part too.
Closures should be interesting and kinda “wonky” when stitched onto the vest. The buttons have not been chosen yet. But I always leave some room in the loop portion  for whatever size is chosen. The loop can be stitched closed more if needed. I would never make a new one.
Side closures aren’t seen as much so I keep them simple. I like tying knots on the ends and trim excess off as close to the knot as I can get.
Check out this very cool pumpkin. I had to make a trip to the Dentist  while right in the middle of my vest making. I went for my “Coronation.” I even gave a royal wave as I exited the building. O.K., I got my permanent crown for my tooth. I love this pumpkin. Here’s what the receptionist said: Punch holes in the top of a pumpkin (holes should equal how many succulents you have. Gently place root into hole. Pack some dirt around root and hole. Hot glue (just a small amount) moss around to hide the dirt. No watering needed. I want to try this!
Hydrangeas, as happy as can be in this mild November weather.
Such an exquisite color.
Dogwood leaves. More exquisite colors.

So true sometimes. Sigh… But I always say, I could have worse habits. Ha, ha.  Thanks for stopping by. Hugs, Heidi

My Guest Blog Post for Needle & Foot!

by Heidi Emmett

A BIG thank you to Bernie, owner of Needle and Foot for letting me show off some of the fabric she sells using one of my patterns, Terrific Tabard. Be sure to visit her at:  Needle & Foot

Email me: hmemmett@gmail.com for a fast way to order this pattern.

I’m going for a whole new look (than the cover shot above) with the linen blends I got from Bernie’s Etsy shop. Let me show you what I did to create a sophisticated and smooth Terrific Tabard. I started with these linen blends from Bernie. I absolutely LOVE linen! And these two linens will work with ANY other color or colors.

I went to Quilt Market in Portland, OR this past May and was able to buy the black/colored panel by Marcia Derse. This panel wont be available until October. 

I also snagged some very small pieces from Marcia’s newest collection, again available in October.  My linen is sooooo perfect with some of these prints. 

Most of my patterns have tissue pattern pieces included (they always include many sizes in one). Notice I have folded out some of the tissue (closest to the side area). I am making use of every teeny, tiny, bit of this panel. I want to use as little as possible so I can make something else. 

I pinched out some, but now I have to fill it back in with something. I first cut the panel apart near the pinched out area and in the shoulder area. Tip: Always cut wherever you pinch it out. It is a fun and creative trick. 

I cut up a few of those colorful pieces and sewed them together and stitched them to either side of what I cut apart. I started with the red/orange piece (at the top of the shoulder area). 

Always line up other seams and plan to have extra on either end to trim off. I do not like to run short. Below I will just snip, snip, the red-orange fabric off in line with the shoulder seam. 

While I let the fashion layer dictate what each section will look like, I always, ALWAYS, strive for a long and lean look. I want your eyes to see the whole design in an up and down fashion. Never, side to side. I wanted to keep the back simple. So I added just a few strips of fabric. Two more Marcia Derse’s and one of the Linen. I cut out the sizes I wanted and pressed the edges under all the way around each piece. Remember, up and down, up and down. Edge stitch each piece all the way around. 

At the point you see below, in any other “quilted” version of Terrific Tabard, I would be adding batting right now (or before the shoulder seams were stitched together) and quilting all the pieces. Then the vest would be finished off with quilt binding trimming (albeit much narrower than a quilt binding). All those instructions are included in the pattern (you saw it at the very beginning). But THIS vest will have no batting. And it will be lined and not bound. This version really goes together quickly. 

The two front lining pieces are “Grunge” in black. The back piece lining is a very old (no longer being made) Kaffe Fassett stripe. Pin right sides together and stitch all the way around using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Be sure to leave about a 6-8″ opening somewhere on one of the sides. 

Very carefully grade the seams on the curved portions. Grading just means trimming one piece smaller than the other. When you turn the whole piece inside out and begin to press, press, press (that’s the secret to a beautifully lined piece), all the rounded edges will fall into place as you press. Tip: On dark fabrics use a press cloth (a piece of muslin works) on top of the fabric before you press. Sometimes you get a shine, even on linen. 

I have a rather large collection of buttons. Here is a group of Polymer by Sandra Bruce. She also sells earrings and pins. Check it out: SandraBruce.com   I just buy what I like, knowing that someday, I’ll have the perfect button for a project. Forget buttonholes. I use strips of fabric that have been folded and pressed and stitched into place as tabs to hold the button in place.. You’ll see this in a few pictures down.  I love my new vest. I can’t wait to wear it (not sure when since it is summer!), but I’ll be ready when the time comes. 

The button I chose is very intricate and it’s really BIG, but I think it blends in nicely. 

The two side buttons are from my glass button stash. I know, I know, it’s a sickness, but one I don’t want to get over. Ha, ha. 

One last way to style this Terrific Tabard, fold back just one side. 

 

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I wore my newest Sparky Top to town this morning. Wore it while mailing off the other two Sparky Tops in my hands. They go to the two special ladies who got me into Quilt Market, and have helped spread the joy of my pattern line to other Shop Owners around the country. Thank you!!!! Sharon & Carol. You two are the BEST!

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Here are the  intrepid leaders of Artistic Alchemy’s 5th Annual Retreat at Lake Tahoe, Zephyr Point. There are a few spaces left in Mary’s, Jane’s, & my workshops. Click on the icon below to find out more. From left to right: Sandra Bruce, Mary Boalt, Jane Haworth, & me, Heidi Emmett

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I sew appreciate each and every one of you stopping by. Take time, my mantra, ” just 15 minutes a day”, to create something new this weekend. Hugs, Heidi

Check This Out! From these to THESE!!

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I used to design and create cool projects for Stitch magazine. It was really fun. The magazine is gone now but I bet you can find copies on Ebay or Etsy.  Spring/Fall leaves was one of my projects. It is such a versatile,easy peasy idea.

That’s my project in the upper left corner of the picture below. 

And here it is again as seen in the magazine. I also did a lovely summer version, two completely different projects (for their Stitch summer E-book).

I used Alison Glass cotton batiks and for the center portion, a batik type muslin by Marcus Brothers. 

Here I mixed silk shantung with glorious Alison Glass cotton batiks. Love this. 

Here is the first “summer” version I sent them. These fabrics are all Marcia Derse fabrics. Our sweet rescue dog, Sparky. We miss him so…16 1/2 years we had him. 

Second summer version shown here is the one they chose. 

Close ups. I think by looking at the next few pictures, you will be able to figure out this project. I do tell you how in a past post (that I forgot to categorize, acck). Sometime in the Fall of 2015.  I’ll tell you next week I promise, no time today to search. These leaves are like the Lays potato chip slogan.  Except, I say, “You can’t make just one!” Addictive!

Another hint, batiked fabrics (like below) are more tightly woven so there is automatically less raveling (perfect for raw edged designs), and have no right or wrong side, although one side typically looks a teeny tiny bit lighter. 

Well,we now come to the part where the title of this weeks blog comes into play: From the projects above to the projects below.  I decided it was time to use my leftover leaves and this is what I came up with. LOVE these Kimonos now. I keyed off the linings of the two of them. See below.

The lining of this Kimono is a beautiful leaf printed silk(whoops forgot to take a picture). The leaves are purposely off-set, because they are hand cut, they will never match, and I really don’t want them too. I had to take pictures of this one in place but not sewn. Phew, I beat the rain!

Also, I’m part of a great group of “Art to Wear” fiber artists and we are having a “Pop Up” Sale at 485, 12 Bridges Drive,Lincoln, CA. It runs from 1:00p.m.-5:00p.m.  Clothing/accessories/jewelry, so many beautiful items. Maybe we’ll see you there !! Hugs, Heidi

 

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You Could Make a Dozen of These!

I’m on my way tomorrow to the Haute Couture Societe’ in Stockton, CA. I’ll be doing my Trunk Show on Designs by Heidi with an afternoon workshop on making  “Tahoe To a T”, a Tunic. Wish you all could be there too.

You really could make a dozen of these, and in pretty quick order too! Once you create the pattern pieces (three rectangles), the hardest part will be picking out the fabrics you want to use!  A great thing about this pattern is that is a 4 seasons tunic. It just depends on what the base fabric is, linen, lightweight denim for summer/fall and corduroy, canvas for winter/spring.  And you can easily wear it with or without a t-shirt. I love the T.T.T. below using a turquoise light weight denim for the background and Marcia Derse quilting cottons for the panels.

 

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But wait, here’s another one. Black linen for the base and hand painted cotton for the panels. Love it!

And here are all the teachers for the upcoming Artistic Alchemy Retreat Sept. 3-7th being held at Lake Tahoe at Zephyr Point. Check out all the particulars. Click on the icon below or go to Artisticalchemyblog.wordpress.com  My workshop is jam packed with creative FUN!

Thanks so much for stopping by.  Find 15 minutes a day, that’s all I ask. Your creativity is right there waiting for you. I can’t wait to see what you do.

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Get Cozy and Rest Awhile Before The Fire…

Yesterday was the perfect day to stay indoors. Here in Cedar Ridge, CA , we received 6 inches of rain yesterday.  On days like that, I have go to “Cozy Clothes.”  Below is what I picked. I made this pullover hoody with kangaroo pockets in 1989!! Yes, 1989. I had Heidi’s Fabrics then and I could not keep PolarTec in stock during the fall and winter. “Polar Fleece” fabrics were created by Malden Mills out of Massachusetts. They are the company that started the Fleece craze. They had the BEST quality fleece on the market. At least 4 weights, 6 types, stunning prints, solids, and never EVER pilled. So sad, the mill burned to the ground in 1995 and as so many textile mills in the USA, gone for good. 

I used a Kwik Sew pattern. Oh my gosh, I just added up the years, and I have kept it for 28 years! It has truly been my “go to” cozy, comfy, feel better, pullover. All the other cozy clothes I own, and I keep pulling out this one.Who knew?  I’m certain that YOU own some cozy clothes too. Look at new piece with the eye to, “Can I upcycle this garment (make certain to use and Extra Large and Roomy for the best “Cozy” factor) to make it your new go to Cozy piece?

Found one!  Ha, ha,in fact,  I’m WEARING it as I write my post today. I found a Tommy Bahama, mens X LG , super quality French terry- like, cotton knit.  

Most important for me, a kangaroo pocket. I used Marcia Derse fabrics and used a super light weight batting (to show off the quilting), small amounts of all my fav’s so I can wear any color turtle neck underneath. I purposely lined the simple rectangle pocket (take a pattern from one you already have) with muslin, and wanted it to show as I am rolling up the sleeves. I stitched the K.P. down the middle and a few inches up the side openings so my kleenex or whatever, won’t fall out.

I added extra little pieces here and there, one on the back, and one on the front, to tie the whole thing together.

I’m feeling so cozy right now, excuse me while I go make a cup of coffee and have a piece of pumpkin pie. Be right back……

Ohh THAT was yummy. Since I spoke about Marcia Derse fabrics (check out her website or go to Ebay for older prints), I want you to see the Terrific Tabard vest I made out of this panel fabric, one of the few panels she has created. 

 

Email me: hmemmett@gmail.com if you are interested in purchasing this Art to Wear vest sewing pattern. I will mail it to you for $16.00 (includes tax and shipping).

Fall is my FAVORITE time of year. Yes, my weekly blog post would not be complete without a few more pics. Below is a Norway Maple leaf. This leaf was confused. Norway maples tend to go “gold” for fall. This year branches upon branches have some leaves that were red.

The beginnings of my fall set up on my front steps. Can you spy the fake pumpkin? There is one in this picture. In fact, when Thanksgiving gives way to Christmas, and “fake” pumpkins go on sale, I buy. I mix them in with the real deal to make for a stunning (in my humble opinion, ha, ha) display. With the real pumpkins, no matter how hard I try to pick the best, I will have a casualty now and then. Pumpkin mush is a mess to clean off  brick steps. I spy the fake pumpkin, it’s the little white one. I used a felt pen to make a more realistic stem. Isn’t the red orange pumpkin gorgeous? These are called “heirloom pumpkins.”

Chinese lanterns picked at their peak. Will add these to my Thanksgiving table. 

Red maple. 

Another Red maple with sunlight coming from the back. Stunning!

This is one of my Burning Bushes. The color is just getting started. Love my Armillary. It must always point north. 

Dogwood at 5:00p.m. Such rich, saturated color. 

O.K., my husband thought I was losing it when I called him to lunch a few weeks back. I think my leaf  “table cloth”is quite inventive, thank you very much. 

The salad is, Baby spinach, Pear slices (Bartlett), shaved Parmesan, cranberries and nuts, with a pinch of Hawaiian Deep Sea salt, and a drizzle of CA  lemon infused olive oil. For crunch,  I added crushed tortilla chips.  Total yumminess. The other is an Amy’s frozen (yes, when I’m in a hurry) Mexican lasagna. 

Thanks so much for stopping by today. Don’t forget to go to Artisticalchemyblog.wordpress.com  It’s my turn this week. Much the same as here but a few twists. Go do something creative, paint, arrange pumpkins, whatever gets you excited to finish your latest sewing project. Big hugs, Heidi

Off The Grid Vest pattern….How Did it Come to Be?

Happy After Thanksgiving. I’m a day late on getting this out and still recovering, ha, ha, from 21 people at our home. It was a great, thankful, tummy filling time, so, I’m doing a re-run that I think is worth reading again. Enjoy, and thank you so much for stopping by. Hugs, Heidi

Once upon a time, I took the Urban Ombre’s quilt class from Christine. It was great fun. It was the first time I had seen the Diawabo ombre’ from E.E. Schneck in grey or is it gray?Throughout the class I kept thinking, all these fabrics together would make the coolest vest. But what design? So, I took my blocks, along with everyone’s scraps (I ASKED them first), and put them on my design board and began to think.

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Later, Christine said she was doing a lecture at the E.E. Schenck Trends Show (a show for shop owners  in Porland, OR). Since Schenck sells the grey background fabric Christine was showing her quilt and then she said, hey, that vest idea you had, that would be great, I’ll take that too, so we can get your name out there. O.K., that sounds good, when is it? 

In a month. Whaaaaattt?! I have done NOTHING! The little pieces were falling off the design board, or covered by other projects that were creeping in.

An hour later, I stood at my ironing board, fabrics spread out and I said a prayer. I had a nice chat with God and said, Help!! I walked over to my little garment rack of purchased pieces (whether from a “Real” store or the thrift shop)all for ideas for future project. I pulled out a super short jacket that had bad fabric and design, but the collar!! and while that jacket had a skinny front band, I liked how it connected to the collar.  

I whipped out my sketch pad and started with rectangles. I knew I wanted a long, lean, look to this vest pattern. The rectangles kept coming to mind. 

I also wanted to showcase the interesting fabrics on the front, so I made the front panels really wide . Those pieces, the rectangle  shaped log cabin blocks, and the “sticks” (remember those pieces people discarded?), again they are all rectangle shapes.  

It all came together so smoothly (remember that prayer at the ironing board?). I was sewing up a storm and it was time to add the front panel pieces. WAIT A MINUTE!! They are too short at the bottom, no, no, NO! (Oh, dear, I just told the world that I made a major measuring mistake). And NO TIME to make new front panel pieces. 

Upon further trying it on, looking, thinking, I came to the conclusion that I LIKED it that way! Who knew? I like it being “off” at the bottom edges (hint, hint, Off the Grid).  You will be happy to know that yes, I finished it in time for Christine to take up to the Portland show. She said it was a big hit. Yea….

I use Terial Magic on the strips used for the blocks and sticks. I love how this product keeps things from fraying while I”m raw edge stitching them down.

It’s so fun to use Marcia Derse prints, and other ombre’ fabrics. The blocks have their edges turned under and are edge stitched to the gray ombre’ background fabric. 

I use glue (the bottle in the picture is basting glue), but I also use basic school glue (like Elmer’s). You can see the subtle change in the background fabric. I really enjoy turning it this way and that, darker portions verses lighter sections. It’ what YOU like. That’s why I call for 3 yds. for the background (room to play). 

Notice please that I use a zig zag stitch (rectangles again), and it also encases the raw edge of the fabric. 

And I do, what I call, “Shadow quilting.” They are always done in a rectangle shape . I like the look and it adds more quilting to the piece. 

I do any all over quilting in gentle curves because it’s easier on the eyes (if they were straight it’s too hard to sew perfectly straight) and adds movement. 

Look at the SUPER COOL necklace my 93 year young friend, Lila Sugg made for me (she is a MASTER sewist). It is so perfect with my vest (a secret, shhh…the gorgeous chunks of turquoise are made from potatoes).  Google that one, people! 

And listen to this, E.E.Schenck now carries my patterns and my book! And I have been asked to come to the next Trends Show and present a trunk show on my Art to Wear patterns and book. Sharon, the buyer, said that “Art to Wear” is coming back in a big way in the quilting world and I’ll be right there!  Hugs, Heidi