I’m changing things up at Design’s by Heidi. Same great patterns, but I’m looking forward to working with different fabrics, and a sleek and smooth look, so very little to no quilting. I will always have beautiful quilting fabrics in my designs and lots of stitching, but now I want add fabrics such as silk shantung, linen, wools, etc. and add some solid colors and/or more black. I am just getting started on my “Black + A Color” collection (using my current patterns). Below, I present to you, the FIRST piece in this collection: Terrific Tabard aka “Skinny Vest.” Here is the basic pattern.
I bought one of Mary Boalt’s beautiful “half a canvas.” I love it sew much that I was determined to use every, single, scrap! And I have. Let me show you how I did it. Below, on the right side of the vest, I used the majority of the panel. It measured approximately 18″ x 29″. I used View “A” with the rounded front piece (near the neck area). I chose to pin my vest closed at the top instead of a button at the waist. A whole NEW look.
O.K., let’s unpack how SIMPLE this vest was to make. I think that laying it out flat shows how easy it is.
And here are the lining pieces. Before we go any further, this is the biggest change to the Terrific Tabard pattern. Normally, all creative work is done on the wrong side of the lining/foundation piece. This time, creative stitching is done on all the outside pieces and the lining is used to create the finished outside edge. Here is the order to put this together: 1. Stitch, right sides together, the decorated pieces at the shoulders. 2. Copy that on the lining pieces. 3. With right sides together, pin the outside of the vest, to the lining of the vest. 4. Begin stitching all the way around the vest on one side of the back. 5. Stitch, stitch, all the way around until you come within 6-7″ of the beginning. 6. Turn the vest through this opening. 7. Press, add loops, buttons, etc.
Now for some of the details. My beautiful “closure” pin. Look in your long forgotten pin drawer. Who knows, an entire vest may come from one of your treasures.
This is the largest, leftover piece I had. Oh, great, a chunk is missing. No worries.
Sew a piece to it. Stitch in a gentle curve (no time to make it fit exactly in the empty space). Press FIRST, then trim away excess (I have been known to trim off the WRONG edge).
It has been pressed, trimmed, and greaaaat, there is a pleaty thing going on. No worries. This is “Art to Wear” and improvising when necessary is the name of the game.
Getting ready to trim off the excess. I use my rotary cutter, ruler, and mat, as much as possible. It increases accuracy in my cuts.
Now the fun begins! I’m auditioning some of my favorite fabric pieces. I always have a main fabric to key off from. In this vest I used Mary Boalt’s (check out her work at Artisticalchemyblog.wordpress.com ) hand painted and stamped canvas.
Remember I said I use every single scrap? There is one scrap above (I added that polka dot to, and below is another scrap). Hmm..it has a “sort of” pocket shape. That’s it, make a pocket.
I lay all three pieces out and pick and choose my fabrics to go with. I don’t have any idea what I really want. Ya just have to start. A few things I do know: 1. I want long, lean, lines. 2. I want at least one pocket. 3. I wont add anything to the beautiful panel piece. Taking pictures of what you are doing can really help. Also, leave it for awhile and come back with fresh eyes. This picture already shows me one thing I don’t want and that is bunnies hopping across my waistline. That’s a horizontal line= feeling larger.
Note: Yes, I placed these pieces on top of some major piles of fabric. Acckk.. it’s an ongoing job, straightening and rearranging in my studio space.
The bunnies have hopped around to the back and I’m putting a strip of polka dots on the front and running it at an angle for a thinner look. The pocket is already on. See the thread on the the side? That is where I stopped stitching. This gives some depth to the pocket so stuff wont fall out. And now I’m thinking about closures and buttons. What to do, what to do,….Oh, and there is another scrap (under the button), should it go there? Acck..I have to stop for a bit.I can’t decide on anything because I’m hungry.
Well, I just found out that our personal chef wants to quit. Kidding, the personal chef is ME OF COURSE! So I sent my CTO & CFO out to pick up something (that CFO, etc. I’m not kidding about, is my husband). O.K. back to it. Button, button, where is the perfect button? These are all so cool. Sandra Bruce makes the best polymer buttons and earrings. See her treasures at Artisticalchemyblog.wordpress.com
Too funny. All those beautiful buttons and I ended up with a pin. A smoother look (I wasn’t liking a tab or ties for the front). The pin is perfect.
I forgot to point out the cute little colorful ties that Mary added to her canvas. The finishing touch. I love them.
Now I am topstitching all those pieces down. Use glue or pins to hold them in place until sewn. I have the presser foot up (needle in fabric)in this picture as I am getting ready to turn it around and stitch right into the silk. I call this cardiac stitching (goes up and down in a zigzag pattern similar to an electrocardiogram).
I am putting a spotlight on the stitching down of the long strip that I added the polka dot fabric too. I ran it, longwise, through my serger. I got ready to press it under, but I thought, that I liked the texture that I just made, sew I stitched it down. Oh, and to the left of the bunnies, that is where the little scrap ended up (I originally had it under a button.
There is some more stitching on the front.
Here is a rectangle of stitching from the front side. Whaat is going on here?
Here is the wrong side. I found a scrap of a light weight canvas. I stitched it down all the way around on the wrong side of the vest front. Who cares what the fabric looks like, as the vest will be lined. But the weight is perfect to prevent puckering.
Back to the right side and stitch, stitch, stitch, up and down, back and forth, until it looks like this. I have named this method, “Stock market Ups & Downs.”
Another rectangle ready for the stock market stitch.
I just had to include these next two pictures. When it gets too cold (and/ I’m doing some cleaning) in my attic studio, I bring fabrics down and do my cutting out on my dining room table. I see four projects in this picture in various states of readiness to sew. Rubix zeroed in on the soft pile of my newest Kantha cloth acquisition. He looked pretty cute. He loved his puddle of sun so much, he stretched out on his back and……
promptly rolled right off the table. Of course he sauntered out from under the table as if to exclaim, “I meant to do that.” There are stories in this picture. Yes, that is a sewing machine table in the background. My sweet dad put that together 50+ years ago and my mom gave it to me when she downsized. It’s a treasure. The Leopard chair (ultrasuede) is from my Mother-in-law. There are two of those. Hmm…I think I have enough leopard items to do a post on “All I know about Leopard prints and why I love them so!” You saw the Kantha which is now, another post idea coming to the forefront of my brain, “All About Kantha.” Last but NOT least is the FABULOUS Mary Boalt canvas on the chair. Of COURSE I HAD TO BUY ANOTHER ONE! After my new favorite Terrific Tabard that you just read about, the ideas just keep coming for ways to incorporate her canvases into other Designed by Heidi patterns.
Thanks for stopping by! Get creative this weekend. Hugs, to you all. Heidi